"Tony's tasting room is at the end of a tunnel that has been drilled into a rock hillside. It's another remnant of Tito's reign, part of a power station the dictator built on the island. As a wine cellar it's perfect. It belongs to Tony today because he was "lucky and knew people".

The label of the 2005 Lipanovic Vugava carries the term Vrhunsko Vino, which means it has been assessed as a "top wine" by the Croatian national wine authority.

I put the wine to my lips. It is dry, quite weighty and viscous. There is also an earthiness that is hard to pin down. It is fresh, interesting, singular wine. I tell him this.

He responds: "We may not play the best cricket, but we do make the best vugava in the world." (...cijeli članak )